Day 3 - Road Trip and Delphi

Miguel de Cevantes in Nafpaktos

We said farewell to the capital and headed off in light rain to Delphi to visit the area of the oracle and one of the best known ancient sites in Greece. On the way we had a coffee break in the delightful village of Arachova with its quaint mountain atmosphere, narrow marbled streets and stepped alley ways. We mingled in the tavernas with the old men who seemingly gather to ponder and reminisce over their short black coffees while having the odd heavy smoke.

Malcolm, Cynthia, Judy, Glenn, Judy and Maria at the Delphi Museum

We arrived in Delphi now a major archaeological site with well-preserved ruins. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987. The town lies in the territory of Phocis on the steep lower slope of Mount Parnassus, about 10 km from the Gulf of Corinth which is a deep inlet of the Ionian Sea separating the Peloponnese from western mainland Greece.

After dropping our bags off at the Acropole Hotel, we all spread out and had lunch at various tavernas and then our bus picked us up and too us to the Museum, where we met our fantastically enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide, Penny.

Penny took us through the archaeological museum along with many artifacts from the site including the omphalos, the sculptured cone that stood in the exact centre of the world and the famous bronze statue of the Charioteer, one of the most celebrated pieces of ancient art in the world.  After the museum, she took us on a tour of the archaeological site itself.

Delphi in ancient times was considered the centre of the known world, the place where heaven and earth met. This was the place on earth where man was closest to God. In Mythology, Delphi was the meeting place of two eagles, released by Zeus and sent in opposite directions. Where they met indicated the centre of the earth. It is regarded as the centre of worship for the God Apollo, son of Zeus who embodied moral discipline and spiritual clarity, and was the guardian of the oracle.

Temple of Apollo, Delphi

The oracle of Delphi was a spiritual experience whereby the spirit of Apollo was asked for advice on critical matters relating to people's lives or affairs of the state. Questions were asked to the Pythia, or priestess who 'channelled' the spirit of the God. Even the most sceptical person must realise that there was something 'magical' going on in Delhi for several thousand years. Many people who come to Delphi claim they have felt 'something'.

The group listening intently to Penny's every word.

The centre of Delphi is the sanctuary of Apollo, on the southern tip of the mountain slope. The Doric temple was the home of the Pythia, who seated on a tripod above a deep crevasse, would pronounce her prophesies while the priests wrote them down and translated them to the people. This temple was destroyed by fire in the fourth century BC and then rebuilt. The temple walls used to be inscribed with words of wisdom such as "Know Thyself", "Nothing in Excess" and "Don't take any Wooden Drachma", which are as meaningful today as they were when they were written.

While there Marli noticed a goat looking down on us from a crag at the top of the famous mount – maybe there was a message in that?

Temple of Pronaia Athena, Delphi

Below these ruins are the Temple of Pronaia Athena, also known as Marmaria, or the marbles supposedly because of the abundance of ancient stones laying nearby. The Tholos or temple is probably the most widely recognized building on the site because of the colour of the marble and the fact that it is a round temple. Beyond is the Gymnasium and the Paliastra which were used to train the athletes who competed in the Pythian games, held every four years to commemorate Apollo's victory over Python. The Castelian spring is where pilgrims washed themselves before consulting the oracle and the crystal clear water still flows from it has it has for thousands of years.

The group having dinner at Patriko, Delphi

That night most of the group took over the outside patio of a taverna, Patriko, looking down the valley and on to the lights of the seaside town of Itea.  After all the step climbing we were looking forward to a day of sitting in the coach

Day 2 - Athens

This was a free day, which was very fortunate, as a General Strike had been declared for that day.  We were warned to stay away from the Syntagma area which would be the focus of demonstrations and any unrest that may occur.  Most of the group adhered to these warnings, except our intrepid tour leader, Dick, who before yesterday had trouble with his sinuses, but now they are as clear as a bell due to the tear-gas he was forced to inhale!  Fortunately, that was the only problem he encountered but his descriptions of the gas bombs, fires, riot squad activities and ambulances were quite scary.

Most of our troops took a stroll through Monasteraki  (or the flea markets) before having lunch there or at the now well visited Plaka taverna area.

Later that afternoon we were fortunate to find, through the work of our lovely agent, Kiki, a driver (once again Sissis) who was prepared to work and take us down to the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion.  The drive down the coast was spectacular showing us the multitude of clear water swimming coves and bays available to the Athenians. The Temple itself is on the most eastern cape of mainland Europe and it was fabulous.  However, we did arrive a little early for the sunset, so had an early meal at a couple of fish tavernas and then returned to the Temple to take the sensational photos of the sun setting behind the Temple.

We then wended our weary way home and hit the sack – at least to my knowledge everyone did that! J  We had to pack and get ready for our early start for Delphi the next day.

Day 1 - Athens

The weather has been marvellous for roaming through Athens, we have even had a bit of rain, and especially for tramping up to the Akropolis.  We were met at the hotel by our wonderful guide, Alexandra, and very patient driver, Sissis.  They first of all took us on a bus-tour of the city of Athens, stopping off at the Stadium which had been built in marble for the first modern Olympics in 1896 – it is an athletic stadium, but was used for archery etc in the 2004 Olympics held in Athens. These days it is used for concerts and similar outdoor events and it was because they were setting up for a concert that we couldn’t enter.  From there we went on to the Temple of Zeus of which we had a wonderful view of from our hotel. The columns tops gave us a good appreciation of the different architectural styles of Doric, Ionian and Corinthian and Alexandra showed us the plant from which the Corinthian style was based on.

After that a tour of the major sites in the centre of Athens including Syntagma/Constitution Square, where we noted that the Evzones (Palace Guards) outside Parliament House had changed their uniform to the khaki summer uniform – not as memorable as the winter one! Amongst other things this consists of a short skirt (foustanella) and most unusual shoes featuring huge pom poms. Most of the crew had seen these before the tour officially started.  Parliament House used to be the Royal Palace in the days of the Greek monarchy which ended in 1932. All the monarchs had been either Bavarian or Danish and were never close to the Greek people so it was no surprise when the country became a republic.

After passing other notable buildings such as the old university and the Academy, we stopped at the Akropolis and once again had a pretty steep climb to the top (the previous day some of the early arrivals had climbed Lycabettus, the highest hill in Athens, to visit an historic church and to get the best city view).  On the Akropolis we were able to see the wonderful Parthenon and the restorations that the Greek Government is achieving with painstaking care. We also saw the old theatre, Herodicus Atticus, where the original dramas were staged and is now being used for a range of artistic events, including a recently produced Tango Festival.

After descending from the Akropolis, we took a short walk to the amazing Akropolis Museum where Alexandra once again gave us the history of some of the archaeological finds and as we walked over the glass sections of the ground floor we could see the archeologists working below us on more retrievals. The museum is very modern and being so close to the ancient sites on the Akropolis forms a nice but controversial juxtaposition between the ancient and modern buildings. The tour was filled with the mythology behind all the sculptures and reliefs and will whet the appetite for reading on the subject when we return.  The tour also highlighted the many holes in the collection, in particular the Elgin Marbles (or Akropois Marbles as the Greeks rightly term them) , which are to be found in the British Museum, and also amongst others, the Berlin Museum. 

It was a rather exhausting day, many of us had sore feet, but well worth it, especially when we were able to sit down for a Greek salad and glass of retsina in a nearby tavern in the Plaka area. This district is truly a world capital for food and beverages and the value is great with a good meal and wines averaging between 10-15 euros or 15 to 22.5 Aussie dollars. In recent centuries most of Athens was in and around the Plaka with a population of about 8,000. Athens today is close to three and a half million.

The rest of the day was free, so some people elected to return to the Plaka and others to their hotel for a little rest before we walked to the taverna Geros tou Moria – we have been doing a lot of eating and drinking, but also a lot of walking – hopefully one is counteracting the other!

A great night was had by all at this lovely taverna on the Steps of the Plaka.  We had a traditional plate of mezethes – spanakopita, cheese ball, dolmatha etc, then lamb or moussaka and yoghurt and honey or karythopita (walnut pie) for dessert, washed down with copious amounts of local wine.  We were entertained by a couple of fantastic bouzouki players – they played none-stop for well over two hours!  Then came the Greek dancers – two men and two women – who were very entertaining, but the highlight of the night was when Dick lead a group consisting of Anthony and Kevin in their version of Zorba’s dance – they were also joined by a very bemused Greek girl!

Whew – that was a big day!

The Adventure has started!!

On Monday 13 June, which was a public holiday in Greece, a small group of the early arrivers (Cynthia, Margaret, Marli, Kevin, Anne, Grant) decided to join Jane, Jan and Dick to make the most of the mild weather - it has even poured with rain! - and walk up to Lykavettos Hill, which is one of the magnificent sites we can see from the roof top bar of our hotel, the Royal Olympic.

As we walked through Syntagma/Constitution Square, which has been taken over by peaceful protesters demonstrating against the extreme measures the Greek government has been forced to inflict upon its people due to the country's financial crisis, the group was lucky to see the two Evzones guards change places. The Evzones were still in their winter uniform which is the traditional one where they wear the 'foustanella' or skirt and the shoes with the pom-poms - the very next day they had changed into their more conservative summer uniform.

Marli and Cynthia arriving at the top of one of the many stair cases leading up to Mt Lykavettos

Special mention has to be made of the fact that Marli, Kevin and Margaret had just arrived from Australia and were still in their winter clothes, as they had not yet been able to check into their rooms.

After the changing of the guards, Margaret decided to leave the group as she was a little hot and tired, but the rest of the group gallantly trekked up the steps to the bottom of the Lykavettos hill - we likened it to trekking to the base-camp of Everest! Once we had reached base-camp, Cynthia and Dick wimped out and opted for the finicular railway which takes you to the top of the hill. However, the real troupers kept on and with the masterly skills of the map-master (Grant) we found the path and wended our weary way up the hill and finally made it to the top, where we were rewarded by the most magnificent 360 degree view of all Athens.

And who should we find sipping a Mythos (local beer) or two but Cynthia, Dick, Geoff and Judy and Malcolm and Judy who had independently found their way up the hill as well - Geoff maintained that he had run up the 277 metre hill, but the rest of us found that difficult to believe!

Amazing who you bump into on top of Mt Lykavettos

Anne, Grant and Jan decided to complete the task and walk down the hill as well, the rest of the pikers took the finicular railway down the hill.

We are going to have an awards night at the end of the trip and Marli and Kevin will be put on the list - for tackling the hill having just got off the plane, but Anne and Grant will also be on the list for walking up and down the hill. Jan doesn't count because she doesn't like finicular railways and would have walked twice the distance rather than take that option!!

Further photos of the trek can be seen in the gallery of photos - still a work in progress.  If there is anyone who knows if there is an easy way to add slideshows to a blog, please email me on panners@iinet.net.au,

Useful internet sites on the places we will visit

http://www.parga.gr/
http://www.corfu.gr
http://www.breathtakingathens.gr/
http://www.delphi.gr/Default.aspx

All Greek to you? We've got the answer!

John Keats only imagined things Greek in his famous Ode on a Grecian Urn but we'll take you across the country as we lead you to two hideaways - the Panorama Hideaway Apartments on the best hideaway in the Ionian Sea.

This is a great value trip because of the local knowledge in the land content. Never mind asking - "What does a Grecian earn?" - we know what a Grecian should charge!

Get yourselves to Athens on the cheap airfares or on your frequent flyer points and let us give you as relaxing and as scenic and as lively a Greek trip as you'll ever have.

It consists of:

• Two days in Athens
• One day in Delphi
• A trip across Greece to the North West Coast
• Three days in the vibrant mainland port of Parga
• A week based on the highlight island destination of Corfu

The tour will be hosted by two ladies who have lived and worked in Greece, particularly Corfu, and who still know enough of the local tourist operators to find us the best value accommodation and trips. They will be assisted by an experienced sporting tour guide who has a nose and a taste for good bars and restaurants, and who will keep everyone amused.

When you say 'Greek Islands' most people think of the white islands, the Cyclades in the Aegean Sea, but Corfu is a gem situated in the Ionian Sea on the Italian side of the country. It is close to the mainland and has many outstanding features, including:

• Called the "Emerald Island" because it is the greenest of the Greek Isles
• The verdant landscape and spectacular scenery comes from the ranges, mountain peaks and dozens of beaches, varying from popular open beaches to those between headlands and to those secluded ones nestled into protected little bays and inlets.
• It is a large island with 217 kms of coastline and 200 charming villages so there is something different to do every day if you feel like it and that is only on the island itself. Our trip will also include a couple of days sailing out to some other islands.
• Tranquility is an attraction in this part of the world but for those looking for lively entertainment there is plenty of life in the fort odd resorts, nightclubs, tavernas and beach bars.
• Corfu town is a destination in itself with its history, its harbour, its world heritage listing of the old city and its impressive Venetian architecture.
• Mid June sees Corfu at its best: beaches and tavernas filling up but not too crowded; beautiful warm days with temperatures reaching mid to high 20's - not too hot, just right so bring the bathers and the sun screen! Warm evenings enabling a good night's sleep - a jumper may even be needed late at night - especially if you plan to use the evening water-taxis.

And that is just Corfu, we haven't even spoken about Athens - the home of Pericles, Plato, Socrates, to name but a few; Delphi - one of the most impressive archaeological sites you are ever likely to see; and Parga, a wonderfully vibrant port on the western coast of Epirus. The rest can be a surprise and there'll be plenty of time for you to discover pockets of interest for yourselves. Greece is the sort of place that attracts a lot of return business which is probably the best endorsement that any destination can have.

Overview of Tour – June 2011

OVERVIEW

Day	Overnight location	Accommodation	Website
Day: 1 – Mon June 13 to Day: 3 - Wed June 15	Athens One of the oldest named cities in Europe and the world	Royal Olympic Hotel	www.royalolympichotel.gr
Day: 4 – Thurs June 16	Delphi Known in ancient times as the 'navel of the earth'	Acropole Hotel	www.delphi.com.gr
Day: 5 – Fri June 17 to Day: 7 - Sun June 19	Parga Gateway to the Ionian Isles	Paradise Hotel	http://www2parga.com
Day: 8 – Mon June 20 to Day: 15 – Mon June 27	Corfu Greece's greenest and most cosmopolitan island	Panorama Hideaway Apartments	www.corfu-panoramahideaway.gr